CtC 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Honister Hause
CtC 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Honister Hause
CtC 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Honister Hause
Walking with Peter
RFM Blue Line
08/07/25
After meeting at about 7.30 at Honister Hause, after a 3 hour plus drive from home, we left Peter's car in the slate quarry and drove to Ennerdale Bridge, our start place, 50 minutes away. Amazingly we parked in the same space near the Shepherd's Arms as on CtC1. The quiet walk to the lake was flat and wooded. We had a last view of Ennerdale bridge on the left and then we passed some felled trees. We had met a young woman who was walking with her dog and exchanged greetings and swapped routes. She was doing the CtC low level. Before we got much further she caught us up and we started to walk together.
Crossing the bridge we emerged from the woods at the start of the lake, Ennerdale Water. The atmospheric weather didn't detract from the beauty of the place.
We passed a guy putting his tent away and again exchanged routes. He was more vague and seemed to be just heading somewhere along the CtC. A definite rover.
Lauren kindly took our photo next to the lake and I took one of her and her dog on her phone. We were in high spirits and full of energy.
This path on the south shore of Ennerdale Water, the original route of the CtC was rocky and in places required some scrambling. It was not easy and quite tiring. Otis the dog, with his heterochromia eyes was entertaining us walking in the lake and scampering up and down the small climbs and rough cliffs we had to negotiate. We indulged in optimistic weather speculations but the hills we were heading for seemed to be in almost continual cloud.
We had enjoyed Lauren's company but after travelling about 4 miles together for well over an hour it felt like the right time to part. Peter suggested we stopped for a break and Lauren and Otis went on their way. The view back along the lake looks benign but that was a tough lakeside walk. Looking forward we could see Red Pike in the clouds. It looked ominous and the slope looked challenging.
The view down the lake and beyond to the coastal plain where the weather seemed to be moderating.
The view of the ridge we would be crossing was starting to look ok. The distance distorts the scale wonderfully so we were totally unaware of what was actually in front of us.
We crossed the impressive River Liza which looked too large for this relatively small valley. Just shows how much rain these western fells get. The track on the north side of the lake is sign-posted as a CtC route and would have been a far easier option than the south side.
At High Gillerthwaite we deviated from the low level CtC and headed up the slope. This is the daunting view in front of us and that skyline is just the start of the climb up Red Pike.
There is no relief as you start to climb onto the higher ground and if anything the slope is even steeper.
We have plenty of stops to catch our breath and the views are starting to get better and better. It looks a long way down but it still looks a long way up. By now we have climbed to about 1600 feet 1130 foot straight up.
Even higher, this is one monster of an ascent. At this point we are at about 2000 feet. A straight climb of 1530 feet but still a long way to go.
We are still on the same ascent but can now see over surrounding hills and into the valley to the north we can see Crummock Water. We are at about 2200 feet.
We enter the cloud level still below the summit and meet a couple doing the loop from Buttermere around Red Pike and down to Haystacks. Pretty much our high level route. He is enthusiastic, her less so.
Finally we reached the top of Red Pike at a height of 2477 feet a total ascent of 2007 feet in one go. That is tough. The views from the top were shrouded in cloud but just off the top occasionally we got some views of the surrounding peaks. It was cloudy, extremely windy and cold. We were thankfully well prepared. We found some shelter behind some rocks and had our sandwiches.
Our next destination was High Stile the highest part of our walk at 2646 feet. The way to it wasn't too bad but the cloud and ferocious wind made walking hazardous and hard work. We could see the drop offs to our left were steep and long and we were aware of the slopes to our right as we had just climbed one. We were tired and expecting a quiet walk along the tops and then down to the slate mine at our destination but it was not to be.
We passed along Chapel Crags above Bleaberry Tarn at times perilously close to the edge with the wind trying to blow us over it.
The views towards Buttermere Fell were obscured and we had small crags to climb and scramble over.
In other places the views were becoming slightly better as the weather seemed to be improving but we were still in and out of cloud and the way was rocky and hard going.
The route forward looked and was hard to cover with lots of little ups and downs, little climbs and scrambles, lots of rock hopping and much watching of the feet rather than taking in the views, all adding to fatigue. The tops have a rare and ethereal beauty with strength and jeopardy being nakedly apparent.
Through breaks in the cloud we got the occasional glimpse of Buttermere as we plodded along. The sunlit valley looked very comfortable. To our right the view into Ennerdale was to put it simply, bleak.
We were leaving the cloud above us as we slowly descended and the Hardwick sheep were a welcome sight. The way was still rocky and tough on the legs.
The horizon to our north and east was awesome but still shrouded mostly in cloud. We passed a trio and exchanged pleasantries. The older guy pointed out which hills were which. It was a nice gesture.
The views from High Crag were breath-taking but we were getting pretty tired so it was more experiencing rather than appreciating the views at this point. It still looked a long way to go and the difficult terrain meant we were going pretty slow but at great effort. There were not many other ramblers and I could understand why, this was tough.
The way down from High Crag was a terrifying zig zag descent along side a scree, you can make it out on the photo on the right. The slope felt like it was too steep to walk down and the stones set in the ground all sloped away trying to throw you forward off the hill. Heart-stopping. This was the worst 'not for the feint-hearted' by a long way. We had no alternative so we just plodded on down at a snails pace. Looking back the feeling was 'did we really just come down that?' There were a pair of ramblers at the bottom and we agreed it was terrifying.
We were exhausted but did not know a way around Haystacks so we followed the route straight over the top. This may be a small fell but it is a steep and big enough hill. In parts it is not walking but literally climbing. There were a lot more ramblers here as Haystacks is a destination on its own for walkers.
The views going up Haystacks were really good but it was a struggle to climb. Tired limbs just do not like stretching but to be fair there were enough hand and footholds to feel safe on the climbs.
The tarn on top of Haystacks was a welcome sight. I wasn't feeling the romantic vision Wainwright had for Haystacks and the idea of a fairy wonderland eluded me. It was nice, nay beautiful, and the views were lovely.
I got it Mr.Wainwright, the valley beyond Haystacks around Innominate Tarn was truly magical and I could well imagine the little folk, goblins and trolls living in this landscape. This is Wainwright's final resting place and I can understand his choice, it is a truly beautiful place.
Looking back from Seavy Knott the atmospheric weather still prevailed.
At this point a navigational error, by me, took us up the hill towards Brandreth. We got some good views but could have done without the extra effort. Still no harm done we quickly regained the correct path.
We were leaving The Buttermere, Ennerdale area and passing over into Borrowdale.
The route over the Fleetwith to Seatoller was a tough rocky walk. Much of the way was hard core and our sore feet were further hurt by the stones being sharp and just the wrong size for comfortable walking.
The final view to the slate mine and Peter's car in the car park. Our reserves were empty and the mind numb but we had made it.....True Yorkshire grit without a shadow. As Peter said that last 6 miles was the hardest walk we have done. It was, but the full 15+ miles was the real difficulty.
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