CtC 1 St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

CtC 1    St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

 CtC 1 St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Walking with Peter 

RFM Blue Line

25/07/25

    Our first day of a new walk, the Coast to Coast (henceforth CtC) high level variant with twists. This walk is a little less defined than the Pennine Way but there is a basic structure to the route that we are adhering to...we are just doing the harder version.

We arrived at Ennerdale Bridge at about 10 to 8 after a 3 and a 1/4 hour drive. The start was a little inauspicious as we couldn't reach the car park we wanted to park in because of a road closure and a lorry blocking the alternate way so we left Peters car outside The Shepherd's Arms and I drove to our start at St Bees.

The first part of the walk after we left the sign marking the start of the CtC was to get our boots into the Irish Sea. To complete the coast to coast you have to dip your feet into the Irish Sea and then at the end into the North Sea.Typically the sea was at low tide so it was a long walk over the beach to the waters edge. We made sure the waves actually lapped over our feet after all if you are going to do it do it well.

A good time for a selfie and then a long walk back over the beach to the start point.

We have been spoilt this walking season as in the main the weather has not only been benign but quite often warm to hot. Today was misty and grey but not cold. Wainwright sets the walk off in totally the wrong direction up the coast along the cliffs so the first part of the trail after the caravan park was a steep slope up the side of a cliff.

Looking back, St Bees looked very nice and the beach fantastic just the kind of place I love but not for everyone.

The cliffs are quite high but the path is a way from the edge so there is no sense of danger. The grey sea and sky merge into a featureless view not really of any interest. The best view was looking forward along the coast. In the distance we could just make out the light on St Bees Head.

As we approached St Bees Head the path dived down a valley and back up the other side giving nice views of the grey seascape.

This is an RSPB nature reserve and there were some viewing points for the seabirds on the cliffs but the cliffs themselves had few seabirds on them and not much sign of their visits. It wasn't a patch on Bempton. There were however a lot of flying cormorants which was cool to see.

The light house was at the top of the hill to our right but there was some sort of observation tower right on the cliffs edge. We were passed by a walker and did see a couple of others on the trail ahead. We discussed the varying numbers who complete the CtC and The Pennine Way. About 25,000 do the CtC as opposed to 2000 doing the Pennine Way. So we were expecting to see a lot more walkers.

A dead mole at the top of the cliff. For obvious reasons we don't often see moles so this was an unexpected encounter.

As we walked up the field near Tarnflatt Hall we realised one of the large cows, the one with the furry head, was actually a bull.

As you can see from this shot they were quite close to us so we followed the safety advice and walked to the gate not looking at the bull. It totally ignored us anyway but better be sure than sorry.

As we turned the corner of the cliff heading east instead of north we decided it was time for a coffee so finding a perch with a bit of a view we had a break. Typically setting off again we immediately came across a wooden bench which would have been much better than a sloping grassy perch but it was too late as we had had our rest. The rocks in this area were covered in well carved graffiti. Someone in the past had a lot of time on their hands. The disused quarry according to the map was an oddity as it seemed to be operating to some capacity with machinery and fencing looking in good order. It is a very red sandstone. We met a couple of people here. A local lad, Arsenal supporter according to his shirt and a London Lass walking the CtC on her own. After a few minutes interesting chit chat we separated and went on our way. The girl went ahead as she was walking faster than us. Within a few hundred yards we had to double check the way as it seemed to go off to the right but the girl had proceeded along the cliff path. We would have called her to tell her she was going the wrong way but she was a long way ahead and had earphones in.

From the top of the path the view along the coast was still very misty. Our route was heading inland.

Whitehaven stretched out below us.

In the far distance the pit head winding gear, presumably redundant, reminded us of our youth in the coalfield of Barnsley. The land below the houses looked like some kind of industrial wasteland being covered in rough scrubland and expanses of concrete.

Our route took us over the fields towards Townhead in Sandwith. The girl had skirted the cliff and was crossing the field away to our left.

As we entered Townhead this ancient gate designed to stop livestock going through was  a treat to see and the huge wall suggested a defensive function in days gone by. We pondered whether Border Reivers went this way. I think they probably did.

Away from the cliffs the walk turned into a countryside stroll.

The farm at Demesne also looked ancient if parts of it were a little run down.

We skirted the farm at Bell House and dropped down the hill to the railway in the valley. We were debating whether it was an active railway when the train turned up. Peter was right.

Under the railway we headed across some lovely green pasture land with sheep grazing, towards the next railway.

This was a disused railway. On the hill up from the bridge we met a couple of guys a little younger than ourselves who were doing the whole of the CtC straight. We had a chat and they said that they would be lunching at the church at Cleator so we said we would aim to do the same.

As we crossed the A595 at Moor Row we passed the CtC statue created by Colin Telfor in 2007. It confirmed we had gone 7 miles only 184 left.

Just after Scalegill Hall the route started to follow an old railway line around Mill Row. We had a quick break under the bridge and chatted to a couple of work men. They were friendly and funny. By now it had been drizzling for some time. My shirt was wet but I didn't want to put a coat on because I was warm.

Along the old railway the nice tarmac surface meant for a swift passage. The cows on the bridge above couldn't help but stare at us from on high.

Leaving the old railway we crossed over some low level pastures and into Cleator. We immediately came across the church at Cleator and stopped for lunch as the sign was nice and friendly. There was only a bench or 2 but they were under cover so more than welcome. After about 5 minutes the 2 guys we had met before Moor Row turned up so we all had our lunch and had a long discussion about the North, London and the Pennine Way. Its always fun to chat.

Cleator with its small houses reminiscent of the industrial terraces we knew so well in Barnsley, before many of them were all redeveloped, lead to the bridge over the River Ehen and at last the start of the higher land we were looking forward to whilst crossing the coastal lowlands.

Behind the low hill ahead of us we could see higher peaks occasionally through the low clouds. We were about 12 miles in to todays walk so the slopes ahead on top of tired legs would be a challenge. The farm and buildings at Black How to put it bluntly were an eyesore. As we tried to go further we came across the girl again with a pair of foreign women looking for the way. Confident we knew where to go we stepped forward but the way was blocked by a no entry notice due to forestry activities so we had to find an alternate track. We had been looking for ward to Dent the first proper hill but we were thwarted. 

We discussed between us and there was a detour indicated in yellow so we decided to follow it.

The 3 ladies set off and we waited a while to see if there was another option. There wasn't so we set off down the road towards Wath Bridge. 

The trees along the edge of the woods were huge and impressive but the majority of the wood was commercial pine.

We caught up with the other 3 and we all agreed that the route would probably follow Nannycatch Road and go over Flat Fell. Peter and I let them go as we went down to the river to get a photo of Wath Bridge with the obvious comparison to Wath  near where I live in South Yorkshire a world apart. The continual drizzle was not pleasant but it was still warm. We decided to cover our back packs to keep the contents dry.

The 3 ladies set off up the steep hill that was Nannycatch Road. We were distracted by a small frog crossing the wet road.

Long before we got to the path at the top of the Nannycatch Road we passed the foreign pair who had stopped for a rest whilst the girl forged ahead. She was strong, easily as strong as us, as we kept approximately the same gap all the way over the fell.

The ever mellow Belted Gallows brightened up the atmosphere of the dull afternoon. The detour had seemed to put us back and the destination seemed to be getting no nearer but actually it was about the same total distance.

This was the washed out view on the hills.We eventually made it to the road at Scarny Brow and the views were just as milky grey.

The hill down to Ennerdale Bridge was in the main uneventful and to be honest could have been anywhere. It was just tarmac the odd path and grey skies. We were getting to quite high mileage numbers so it was definitely preferable to be going down hill.

The girl was in front of us all the way down the hill but we lost her as we entered Ennerdale Bridge. 

We reached the valley bottom and on entering Ennerdale Bridge we could see through the mists promises of mountains to come on our next leg of the CtC. The last thing was to cross the bridge at Ennerdale and get to Peters car. A workman was picking up road signs and we had a little friendly banter with him. At the car there was a girl walking around in skimpy gym gear even though it was drizzling. She passed us exchanging a friendly hello went back into a house and then a few minutes later came out again still dressed for the gym and into her car and away. I guess she was just going to a local gym. It was just an unusual sight in the rain. I stripped off my soaked t-shirt with Peters help and put on a dry fleece for the journey back to St Bees.

The Queens at St Bees was a bit odd. My room sloped. The menu didn't have pie and chips but the burgers were good. The breakfast was below average I had scraped burnt toast, crozzled bacon and a huge ramekin of beans and they didn't have marmalade. The nearest parking was 200 yards away up a hill. To be fair they were very friendly and the rooms were clean and I slept very well. As ever we had a great chat over breakfast as we were looking forward to the British Lions match against Australia. These are the best of times.

17.03 miles

2730 feet ascent

07:00 hours mins walking time

2.4         mph