Walking The Pennine Way, Housesteads to Stonehaugh 21/09/24

 Walking The Pennine Way

Housesteads to Stonehaugh

with my brother Peter

 21/09/24

After a very good and large breakfast at the Bowes Hotel we got to the car park at Housesteads and set off to the start of the next leg of our Pennine Way. It was a tough 11/2 miles mainly uphill to the start near turret 37A. On the way we cogitated over the sign at the Housesteads car park warning of a 600 meter walk to the fort but not mentioning the very steep ascent. On the way we passed a group of US students from Chicago. They happily chatted to us about their home city and the day ahead.

The weather was overcast but warm.

Looking away from and back towards the wall. More straight roman lines.

The wall extends to the left and right of the southern horizon.

A herd of the ubiquitous, in the area, black cows blocked our path. I have become a little wary of cows with calves so we by-passed the cows but they were totally chilled and just watched us. Better safe than sorry.

The area north of the wall over Ridley Common past Bromlee Lough to Crag End is flat, wet and lonely. A massive contrast to the busy wall.

   

 

Looking over to Bromlee lough with the hills of Kings and Queens Crags in the background. Looks a fascinating place to visit but not for this walk.

Down Crag End with Greenlee Lough on the left. Wet, boggy, isolated but cool. We looked all over the area  and could see no signs of anyone around. No chats today. This isolated farmed landscape has a beauty of all its own. We imagined the Picts assembling in the area and choosing the best place to attack the wall. I couldn't help looking out for the wildings north of the wall but found no signs. (Game of Thrones reference)

Crossing the wet moor we looked back to see the wall in the far distance.

It was becoming a distant misty horizon but we could see how the wall dominated the area. We had still not seen anyone since leaving the wall.

The large forest of  Henshaw Common loomed large in the distance. We were looking forward to the change of scenery.

As we reached the gate to the forest, along a track, a car approached us from behind. The lady was lucky we were there as we were able to open the gate for her. After a brief chat she mysteriously asked us if we were heading for the mire but when we said we were on the Pennine Way she was happy and left us somewhat bemused. The human contact was welcome.

The forest was disappointing because much of it had been cut down. The wall was still visible on the distant horizon.

We set off across Haughton Common another large boggy fenceless tract of land. We noticed a figure with a large rucksack some way in front of us. At last a fellow walker.

A small enclosure broke up the crossing of the moor and we rested here a while. 

Much of the forest at Black Law was cut down but the stumps remained and large linear piles of branches covered the ridges. The access roads were the only reference from the map on the ground. The photo on the right shows our last view of the wall in the far distant mist.

We caught up to the walker at Sheepfold near Croziers Hill. She was walking the Pennine way south to north, stage by stage and carried all her camping equipment. We complimented her on her achievement so far and explained how we were covering the same route but over a couple of years and using our own road to road stages. She would be the only walker we came across on this stage. 

We crossed Willow Bog and after a short road stretch we could see the start of our next stage of the Pennine Way, recorded for next year. The road into Stonehaugh was straight and narrow but there was very little traffic, just a couple of cars.

The welcome view of our destination, Stonehaugh. The end of the walk for 2024 to be continued in 2025.

This was a walk of rolling hills in contrast to yesterdays steep ups and downs. There was much less to see, only 1 other walker and the going was wet but good. Consequently we covered the ground much quicker thankfully as it was a 3 hour slog of a drive home.

Its been a pleasure and privalege to walk the Pennine Way with my brother Peter this year and I can't wait until we pick up again next year. In the meantime there are hills in Derbyshire to climb and lanes in Lincolnshire to cover (on the way to Lincoln). 

Distance	8.15	miles
Duration	3.23	hours
Avg. Speed	2.41	mph
Total Ascent	834	ft
Steps	21721