Walking the Pennine Way, Greenhead to Housesteads 20/09/24

 Walking the Pennine Way

Greenhead to Housesteads 

with my brother Petrus

20/09/24

Peter and I arrived at Housesteads car park at about the same time 8.15 after a 3 hour car journey from South Yorkshire. 

We took my car to the start at the Wall Town visitor centre.

The start was leisurely as Peter sorted out an issue with his car breakdown company which involved some phone delays. To avoid accidents, walking and phoning is a real trip hazard, we waited for a resolution. A couple passed us and we were to pass each other a few times all along the wall to Housesteads.

The day was overcast but warm and not too windy. I was really excited to see the wall in this, its most famous section.

The first substantial remnant was the impressively named Turret 45B.

At this point the wall was just a hump running along the top of the hill but the drop offs on both sides were impressive.

We could see the wall in the gloom running over the hills in the distance. The wall in this photo is not the real wall.

We followed the path through a small wood. This wall is looking pretty ordinary at the moment.

Following the line of the wall through the fields to Aesica Roman Fort at Great Chesters 

We stopped at a catering van in the car park at the old quarry, Burnhead for a tea break. I had earl grey and a slice of fruit cake, Peter had coffee and a slice of banana cake. The home made food and drink were great and all at a very reasonable price. We joked with the lady over the lack of wensleydale cheese for the fruit cake. She thought we were pulling her leg but as all yorkshire folk know  wensleydale goes with fruit cake. She was friendly and we promised to tell other hikers about her. We did tell about a dozen groups heading her way and I hope they enjoyed her fare.

The mile castle at Cawthorpe had an info board and there was a lot of wall. Good to see an image of what it would have looked like. The 4.5 meter high wall must have been very impressive in its day.

A bit of wall left behind by the quarrying of the hill as recently as the 1940's

The Cawfield section of the wall is quite high and allows your imagination to complete the rest.

Petrus and Rogerius happily surveying the wall.

This section is just awesome.

We met a few people along this route and many small chats were had.

The turret 41a just before the Caw Gap with the road cutting the wall.

This bleak view of the higher section of the wall where the newer wall closely follows the ridge of the roman wall.

At the trig point Petrus gets to grips with the 21st century. We met an Australian here who was a bit of a character and happily chatted for a long time about this and that. We had a sandwich here a short distance from the trig in case other people wanted to take photos. There were plenty of passers by and all were happy to exchange friendly greetings. Somewhere near here we met a couple of guys running the Hadrians Walk Path for charity. 75 miles in three days. Way to go.

We reached Steel Rigg and after another difficult climb up uneven step-like rocks we could see where the wall came up the rigg and how it seemed to drop off the edge like an infinity pool. Good and brave builders those romans.

The preservation of the wall on this stretch to milecastle 39 is very good probably because it is hard to access.

The next descent down to sycamore gap was equally as difficult to negotiate as the previous ones. Steep uneven wet rock steps are not to be taken lightly.

We discussed the stump with other walkers at this point and there was a real sense of anger and loss. What a crying shame.

Onward to Highshields Crags another well preserved section of wall. At one point we cross the wall and climb the hill on the north side.

The man made hill on the north side was showing a tartan pattern in the fields but despite discussing it with the 2 marathon men we could not really understand the pattern apart from suggesting it might reflect the construction method, who knows?

Looking back along the wall.

The drop from the top of Highshields Grag to the north was high and very close to the path. To use a well worn phrase, 'not for the feinthearted'. It was actually a little scary even for us. 

Good to see the swan family on the lake. We watched the 4 signets practicing take offs and landings on the lake. What a sight.

On through the trees to Hotbank.

 In the distance Grindon Lough.

We passed the sign for the Pennine Way heading north (our start point for tomorrow) but our walk had a mile and a half to go yet.

Here we met a person with long blond hair and a very heavy pack. We exchanged greetings and decided to extend our walk up the hill where the figure had come form rather than down the hill to walk next to the wall to Housesteads. I am trying to be PC but the androgenous person was a joy to meet as he/she answered the simple question of where are you going with the philsophical reply 'to the end'. Cool. he/she did elaborate but the first answer was the best.

A great end to the first of a 2 day walk. We dropped off the hill to the car park at Housesteads and after returning to the start to pick up my car we went to the Bowes Hotel in Bardon Mill. What a great place that was for a well deserved rest over night. Good food, clean and comfortable. Perfect.

This was a tough old walk being uphill and downhill clambouring over uneven rocky steps and slippery slopes. Not easy but very rewarding views and history.