Garrigill to Knarsdale Pennine Way RFM Blue Line
Garrigill to Knarsdale
Pennine Way
RFM Blue Line
09/08/24
Back to the Pennine Way with my brother Peter. This is the first day of a 2 day trip. The day began about 4.30 setting off on the 3 hour journey north at about 5.15. A long journey before a long walk. To explain: we both drive to Knarsdale seperately and then leaving Peter's car there I drive us back to Garrigill to the start of the walk. Thus using 2 cars for a linear walk.
Leaving the car at the pretty village of Garrigill we set off north. The car journey is rapidly forgotten as the walking stretches the body marvelously. A bright sunny day was welcome but the wind was strong and forecast to get worse.
Out of Garrigill and we are next to the river South Tyne, flowing northwards, which is to be a companion on much of this walk. The riverside walk was lovely and flat.
We pressed on through the valley bottom in sunny windy weather suprising a hare by the river. This was easy, too easy.
This route was quite odd with many little stream crossing points made from planks etc. that were to say the least a little sketchy. The way was quite overgrown too but the amount of boot prints suggested that other Pennine Way travellers had had to follow the same detour.
The river continued in the same character lots of rocks and many pebble banks.
Passing through one of the riverside fields we passed a bull that thankfully was only interested in watching us.
The view from the footbridge at Bleagate was pretty much the same north and south. This crossing was open so it was just a matter of rejoining the Pennine Way at Bleagate Farm. We were a little bemused by the lack of other hikers.
The section from Bleagate to Alston was pretty uneventful but at least we were a little higher up so had some better views.
When we arrived at the A686 we could see Alston up to our right but our route turned left over the bridge and to the war memorial.
Leaving the road we headed up the trail and got some nice views of Alston across the valley.
Past Harbut Lodge the route finally moved away from the river up the hill to the A689.
Crossing the road the walk finally starting climbing a more substantial hill and we started to get longer views.
Going up the valley the way starting following Isaac's Tea Trail and I explained to Peter how when we had the caravan in Low Haber I had followed much of the Trail over the hills we could see across the valley. It was like meeting an old Friend. We crossed a steep little valley and then set off up the hill, in the teeth of a gale, towards Whitley Castle Roman Fort. That Isaac must have been fit carrying tea up these slopes in all weathers. Different times.
We had our lunch at the information point just above Epiacum, a roman fort. It was pretty cool to see the fort in the landscape and you could see where the fortifications were on the ground. Closing my eyes I could almost see the pallisades and the roman guards. What we could actually see was a couple walking over the fort. They were the first people we had seen since the start of the walk and happily they made their way over to us and sat with us to chat.
Turns out it was Isiah and Millie from Switzerland. They were doing a tour of roman remains and were loving the open countryside. I enjoyed their company but eventually after finishing our sandwiches it was time to head off.
They were heading up the hill just for the view.
Our walk took us down the valley past Kirkhaugh Cottage to the track next to the railway bridge.
An uneventful walk along the valley to the next bridge with the railway to our right and passing an interesting tree on the valley slope.
Around Williamston at the viaduct we came across a retired couple map reading. We asked if we could help and were told that the lady was brought up in the area and they were trying to find the walks she knew as a child but they were struggling because she could not map read. We explained our Pennine Way project and continued on our way leaving them pouring over the OS map.
We followed the river until the path took us up on to the main road at Slaggyford and then turning to the left we saw the village green and playpark and more importantly benches so decide to pause for our final cups of coffee. From our seat we could see on the opposite hill side what looked like the remains of a golf course. If it was it would have been really steep. It was interesting to speculate as to the risk of having to fetch bad shots. We both agreed after exchanging golf inspired anecdotes that golf was not a sport for us.
We crossed the Knarr Burn next to another viaduct. That railway must have cost a fortune to build.
As we entered the first field after the stream we suprised a deer and I got a good photo of him running away.
Peter in the tunnel under the railway.
We passed some interested onlookers on the last hop past Merry Knowe. The cows were particularly distinguished with the high land of Williamston Common in the background.
Leaving the Pennine Way we followed the road to Knarsdale which was actually just a few buildings following the tree line in this photo.
This was an interesting stint on the Pennine Way. Pretty ordinary low level riverside walking albeit with detour and bull before Alston and then the higher land and Issac's Tea Trail and the unforgettable roman fort before the end at Knarsdale. Definitely not typical of the Pennine Way but I loved it.
After the walk Peter drove us back to Alston to the Lowbyer Manor hotel where we staying. We parked up and then were about to go in when suddenly Peter remembered we had forgotten my car which was at Garrigill. So back in the car, through Alston and to Garrigill again to fetch my car. I think it was tiredness not memory failure on this occasion.
The steps includes walking from the hotel to the Angel in Alston for dinner. The pub was a real local very small and popular. We had a satisfyingly good steak & ale pie and chips,.
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